Category Archives: Designers

Hannah Marshall

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Minimalism at its finest; that’s the what immediately comes to mind when we look at the work of Hannah Marshall.  But, like a sculpture by Donald Judd, the devil is in the details and Hannah Marshall always puts The Devil in the spare details of her LBDs (Little Black Dresses).  Marshall really, really, really understands how to use black and at only 26 years old, has already become an expert at mixing different textures and weights of fabric to create deceptively complicated dresses without so much as one bead, bauble, contrast stitch or any other sort of adornment.  Her LBDs are totally deserving of the word “fierce”, a word that’s been so run into the ground lately that we try to avoid it like the LBP (Little Black Plague).  In fact, these LBDs are so fierce that if Hannah Marshall had been around in 1985 to clothe those rhythmically challenged models in the “Addicted to Love” video, there would be nothing left of Robert Palmer but hair mouse and some stiletto scars.

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Suited to a T

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We love dressing our best every day, but sometimes that perfect outfit just doesn’t come together in the morning.  That’s why it’s important to have some go to pieces that you can just throw on and rush out of the apartment.  Alexander Wang is here to help you out with just that.  His new-ish line, T by Alexander Wang, consists of super-duper-soft basics in neutral colors that hold a little more interest than your standard t-shirt or tank.  We’re especially into any of the offerings exhibiting a little asymmetry.  These babies might seem a little pricey at first (average: $80), but put one on and you won’t want to take it off.  Check out his website for stockists.  They have become required stock for most boutiques and department stores in NY right now.

P.S.  We couldn’t resist throwing in Alexander Wang’s newly available Lara Combat Boot.  This lady is a killer with a 4 inch heel.  She’s also a killer on your wallet.  Lara’s gonna set you back about $700.  But totally worth drooling over in a picture, right?

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Perry Ellis (by Marc Jacobs)

pic from the Met's flickr page

pic from the Met's flickr page

Recently, we went to check out The Model as Muse, the latest exhibit at the costume institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.  Out of the oodles of cool fashion selected from the past 60 years, we were surprised to be struck so hard by the 90s room.  “Smells like Teen Spirit” was pumping through the speakers, a graffiti mural in the style of Stephen Sprouse encircled the room and, on a mock rock concert stage, were mannequins wearing early 90s looks from Anna Sui and Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis.

When Marc Jacobs was picked as Perry Ellis’ successor, he was hailed as a wunderkind.  But, it would only be a few short years before his infamous “grunge” collection got him fired from the label.  If you want a good look at said collection, check out the music video for Sonic Youth’s “Sugar Kane” which features Jacobs, the show and a pre-Kids Chloe Sevigny.

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Jean-Paul Gaultier | Fall 2009 Couture

Aaaaannnnddddd here’s another monsieur that knocked our berets off at last week’s Paris couture shows: Jean-Paul Gaultier. Taking inspiration from popular film (a source often mined by the designer), Gaultier showed looks that embodied, and at times, copied movie heroines. You would need to be a Roger Ebert to spot every single celluloid lady that pranced down Gaultier’s catwalk, but that won’t stop you from enjoying the style of these femme fatales.

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Watching this show could make a cinephile crazy.  Here are the references we were able to spot: Blade Runner, Metropolis, Girl on a Motorcycle, Pierrot le Fou, The Matrix, Sullivan’s Travels, Pretty Woman, The Road Warrior, Working Girl, Barbarella, The Addams Family, Sunset Boulevard, and The Seven Year Itch.  If you think you can do better, feel free to one-up us in the comments section!

UPDATE! : Be sure to check out video of the show after the jump. . .

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Christian Dior | Fall 2009 Couture

For the Christian Dior Fall 2009 Couture show John Galliano took it back to 1947, when the New Look arrived as a welcome and extravagant change from the more restrained fashion of wartime rationing.  Galliano claims to have been inspired by images of Dior working on the New Look in his maison and used said point of reference to create a smaller scale collection and more reserved runway show than people have come to expect.


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Entschuldigung, Karl

Not too long ago in this very space, we were part of the internet rumor mill that speculated on the retirement of one Karl Lagerfeld.  Well, today in the The New York Times, Herr Karl himself refutes the rumor in an audio interview with Cathy Horyn.  In fact, when Ms. Horyn asks him when he will retire, Lagerfeld immediately interrupts with a terse “I will die here.”  So, Karl, our sincerest apologies for participating in the gossip.  If you’re ever in Bushwick, drinks are on us.

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But that’s not all, Karl’s got the goods to prove why he deserves. . . more like needs to stay at Chanel.  Hot off the tails of his killer resort collection, he pulled out the big (possibly crystal bedazzled) guns for the Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2009 show.  This thing just flippin’ rocked.  Of course, Karl did his whole unique combo of “gothic-lolita-80s-hair-metal-high-society-garden-party”, but he also kept it in sync with Coco Chanel’s original vision of a new uniform for the modern woman and created 65 looks that were both of the moment and exceptionally timeless.

You may feel compelled to argue that a display this lavish (the set included several 30′ tall Chanel No. 5 bottles) is inappropriate in the current economic climate. But then Lagerfeld goes and blames the fact that some of his more fanciful designs may seem irrelevant not because he is out of touch with reality, but because no one is throwing huge fancy dress balls anymore.  What a badass.

After the jump, you’ll find a smattering of our favorite looks from the show.  Do yourself a favor though, go to style.com and check out the whole thing.  Really sit back and enjoy it.  Scope out the detail shots (especially those sick gloves/rings that only cover two knuckles).  Hell, even look at the backstage shots to see how they did some of the hair and makeup. . .  And then, check it out all over again!
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Kathryn Amberleigh

These sexy little stilettos from Kathryn Amberleigh are a distinctly cocquettish and feminie interpretation of the current cage heel craze.

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Sometimes the hottest shoes can be (moderately) practical and affordable.  Says designer and company co-founder, Kathryn A. Kim,

When I desgin the shoes I want them to be fun, fresh and exclusive, while at the same time comfortable and wearable.

Kathryn Amberleigh mixes classic hollywood glamour (a favorite of ours at L.u.M.) with a whimsical, pop-art edge.  With prices below $500, what more could a gal ask for?

Check out pic the brand spankin’ new store and current collection on Mott Street (R.I.P. Alice and Olivia)

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